French ingredient manufacturer Silab has unveiled Metallomia, a detoxifying active ingredient developed for menopausal skin. The company says the ingredient targets a deficiency in ferritinophagy, a process that governs the controlled release of iron to meet cellular needs. Silab's modeling work on menopausal skin identified this deficiency as a factor behind limited bioavailable iron and premature skin aging, a phenomenon it calls metallo-aging.
According to Silab, the shortage of bioavailable iron is further affected by UV radiation. UV exposure can promote the degradation of iron/ferritin complexes, leading to a large and uncontrolled release of iron and significant oxidative stress. Metallomia is designed to relaunch ferritinophagy in menopausal skin, facilitating iron provision and supporting key epidermal functions. The company adds that by reducing iron/ferritin complexes, the active limits oxidative stress when skin is exposed to UV. This dual action is central to the ingredient's positioning.
The positioning links menopausal skin care to iron availability and oxidative balance. Silab separates the controlled release of iron needed by cells from the uncontrolled release associated with UV-driven degradation of iron/ferritin complexes. Metallomia is intended to act on the first pathway by relaunching ferritinophagy, while the second is addressed by reducing those complexes under UV exposure.
Reported skin benefits
Silab reports that this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In volunteer assessments described by the company, Caucasian participants showed revitalized skin after 14 days, with a reinforced skin barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion. In Asian volunteers, pigment spots were significantly reduced after 28 days. When applied before UV exposure, the ingredient prevented lipid peroxidation in Caucasian volunteers, and redness was limited within hours after exposure, according to Silab. The reported outcomes focus on barrier function, complexion evenness, pigment spots and UV-related irritation.
Plant sourcing and processing
Metallomia is based on the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. Silab has established a traced supply chain with French partners. The supply has been validated against criteria in the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated through DNA barcoding. To make use of the roots' mucilage content, the company developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Use and compliance
The patented ingredient is recommended at 0.5% to 2% in care products intended for menopausal skin. It is supplied as an aqueous solution and is described as easy to formulate. Silab says Metallomia complies with biodiversity regulations and has a natural origin content of 100% according to ISO 16128. It also complies with international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan, according to the company.